Reply to GAP/C&O Trip Report

So I recently (earlier this week) rode from Homestead to DC, and once back in Homestead looped the south/north trails into PGH to make it official.

I biked the GAP last year and liked it enough to do it again as I was looking to check the C&O off my bucket list. [BACKGROUND: I biked the Erie Canalway last year Bflo->ALB and again ROC->NYC earlier this year. I bikepack and camp nightly riding an older Cannondale MTB.]
I find the GAP Trail to be very scenic, wonderfully maintained, full of benches and places to rest and very nice small towns nicely spaced out with plenty of options for snacks, meals and places to stay if you are not camping.

I duplicated my ride on the GAP staying at Cedar Creek, Overflow and then into Cumberland. This year I stayed at the YMCA in Cumberland and totally enjoyed the facility. There is a large grassy day-use area across the street from a fairly large YMCA Complex. The area has a 4-ft fence around it, a large pavilion with picnic tables, a port-a-potty, clothes lines and even a large metal fire ring. For a small fee you can use the Y's facility for showing or whatever in the AM and they open at 5:00 AM. There is a little bit of traffic and a railroad track behind, but only a morning train awoke me.

NOTE: The Bike shop in the Cumberland Canal Park is great and have a hose you can use to wash off the trail dust and grime.

So, onto the C&O. Say what you might, I really did not care for most of the C&O. I'm glad it's over and have no intention of riding it again. Breaking the trail into thirds, the first third (Cumberland to Little Orleans) the trail surface was terrible. Rough gravel with pot holes, tree roots and a rutted single track (Dual, but you only ride on one, right?) It was tough on a loaded bike and I was happy to depart and use the Western Maryland Trail. After Hancock, the trail was a bit better and much, much better after Shepherdstown where the trail has obviously been resurfaced similar to the GAP. Dual gravel again for miles and somewhere around Seneca (or closer to Great Falls) the gravel changes over to a much courser gravel that was okay (not ideal), but not nice packed cinder gravel which stayed that way into DC area. I opted to jump off and take the Capital Crescent Trail that I hadn't heard of, but asked and stayed with it -- no problem finding Mile Zero given that I had received good advise to stay close the water, etc.

The above covered riding surfaces. I also found the C&O to be way too remote as far as finding services and miles between. I also found it to be monotonous and boring looking at the same dual lane with grass on either side and down the middle with seldom any bench to rest or lean your bike up against. Very few scenic areas except some nice views of the Potomac. Just the same thing, over and over, mile after mile with a lock here and there. I liked the options of the biker/hiker camping areas. Evidently not all that used as I was always the only one and really never saw any other campers except one. Well... one huge exception -- I had made plans to stay at Antietam and after 60+ miles I had unloaded and set up tent to find out I needed reservations! Missed that all together and the "Campground Host" was rather snotty to deal with and refused to give me water (the pump handle had been stolen). Luckily I had somewhat befriended my neighboring campers who allowed me to move over onto their site when I explained my situation.

The only other issue that I had was that the Iodine treated water did not agree with my digestive system, so I was forever in need of finding fresh water. With the hot weather and long distances between civilization, it was always a concern.

I did have four days to stay and visit the DC area. Although I really like trail touring, I also love urban cycling in large cities. I had a fine time riding all over -- and it was so apparent that I had the advantage around the National Mall -- no way the pedestrian tourists were seeing all that I was able to see peddling between destinations. I got to see a lot.

The End. Never again. Bucket List checked.

Wnybubba:

That’s a fair summary of my experiences making several trips from Pittsburgh to DC including the experience at Antietam. Sorry I couldn’t catch up with you for part of your trip. Unlike you I will be doing it again in September.

As an aside, I had the opportunity to ride several bike trails in Ohio the last week. They were scenic, well maintained and well used. A trip that includes these such as the Ohio to Erie Trail would be quite enjoyable. It’s on my bucket list and moving toward the top.

Hi wnybubba, I guess we can agree to disagree. Having ridden both trails 20-30 x’s since our 30’s, if I had to choose one to ride it would definitely be the C & O. I would definitely prefer a hiker biker campground as a rest stop every 5-10 miles over a park bench here and there. The condition of the trail today compared to 30 some years ago is night and day, yet even 30 years ago the trail never bothered us. Perhaps that’s because we go slower than everyone else: our last through trip was 11 glorious days with no rain. We’ve also never noticed any lack of food or water stops along the canal, but then again we have/ would never try the trip in August. We prefer late October when we can stop to camp early and enjoy an all night fire. Again, just my opinion, but my wife and I consistently say we prefer the scenery on the canal especially with the fall weather. However, the more people who downplay the C& O the better for us as last year with Covid it was hard to find a campsite to ourselves and even firewood was a challenge to find . So maybe your right, the GAP is far better and the canal isn’t worth trying :)

Wnybubba:

That’s a fair summary of my experiences making several trips from Pittsburgh to DC including the experience at Antietam. Sorry I couldn’t catch up with you for part of your trip. Unlike you I will be doing it again in September.

As an aside, I had the opportunity to ride several bike trails in Ohio the last week. They were scenic, well maintained and well used. A trip that includes these such as the Ohio to Erie Trail would be quite enjoyable. It’s on my bucket list and moving toward the top.

Wnybubba:

That’s a fair summary of my experiences making several trips from Pittsburgh to DC including the experience at Antietam. Sorry I couldn’t catch up with you for part of your trip. Unlike you I will be doing it again in September.

As an aside, I had the opportunity to ride several bike trails in Ohio the last week. They were scenic, well maintained and well used. A trip that includes these such as the Ohio to Erie Trail would be quite enjoyable. It’s on my bucket list and moving toward the top.

@Rivnuts - yeah, sorry we didn't do any miles together. I like the idea of Ohio to Erie Trail. Come on up and do some miles on the Erie Canalway with me anytime!

@GSK: Glad to agree/disagree. My comparison was that there are so many benches along the GAP and relatively few on the C&O. Yes, there are Biker/Hiker camps, but they are often down off the trail. I'm only looking for a short stop to lean my bike, wipe a brow, drink some water and take a leak. Obviously we travel at different speeds and that is all very cool.

I know my assessment is not what everyone will agree with. I was quite surprised I had not heard others offer the similar insight about the trail. Really, I found it more boring than enjoyable.

Bottom Line: Ride your own Ride.