C&O / GAP Forum

I rode the trail from Pittsburgh to DC in June and would say that the trail surface for about 1.5 miles downstream of Dam 4 (between MP83 and MP 84.5) is downright dangerous. It appears that some resurfacing was attempted and was a complete failure. This area was always a bit soft, with the trail being sandy. Now, though, there is the new resurfacing material on top, but something has caused there to be a large washboard effect. I have ridden washboard roads, and this is similar to that, only the distance between the peaks and troughs is maybe 10 times larger, so the bumps are very rough. And this was difficult to see with the new surface and the shaded surroundings, so you would hit these sections with little to no warning. The old surface, while bad in places, was at least easier to visually determine the surface quality.

Also, further downstream in other sections of resurfaced trail, patches where there was erosion were done with a fill material that was much coarser than the original resurfacing material, but the same color composition. So again, you would come upon these sections of very rough trail with very little time to react to the changing conditions.

If the NPS could at least provide some signage both for the long section around MP84 and the short patch areas, that would go a long way to mitigating the hazard that these rough surfaces present.

Andrew: Thanks for the warning of that area.

I would go on the C&O’s web site and email them about this. I’m not sure if they peruse these forums or not. I have alerted the C&O in the past and have gotten responses from them, usually within 48 hours.

John

Hi John,

Thanks for the suggestion. I did send them a message right after posting here. Hopefully I will hear back soon. I was pretty upset with the Park Service that day, but it took a few days to get home after that, and then life happened, and I forgot to contact them until now.

There has been much discussion and description of the Paw Paw Tunnel bypass detour path up and over the tunnel. One difference I found last week compared to last fall is that the downriver side of the bypass route is much more rough and rutted. Last fall I was able to ride down the last 3/4 of that descent. There is currently construction being performed at the summit of the detour and their vehicles, including crawler track equipment, has traveled up and down that downriver side. This has made deep, rough ruts and tracks along the way. With wet weather, that surface is even rougher at this time. Also there is a wooden "bridge" near the bottom made of planking with gaps between the planks into which your tires could fall causing a crash if you try to ride across it. So beware. For info, it took me about 50 minutes to push my loaded bike up and over the detour this year...admittedly with frequent stops to recover. The bypass is not for the faint of heart. I did however encounter a young person on a geared down mountain bike that had ridden up the majority of the upriver side of the bypass.

Do you think the road detour up to the top coming from the upriver side is doable, either taking Oldtown Rd. to Malcolm Rd. or leaving the trail a mile upriver of Oldtown Rd. to reach Sulphur Springs Rd.? Is that how the person you encountered got to the top, or did they take the actual bypass up?

The road detour to the top is possible but you’d still have to come back down to the trail on the dirt detour.

You can’t connect to the C&O at Sulphur Springs Rd as there is swampland/farmland between the Trail and the road. I’m not saying it has never been done but it doesn’t look possible.

You could get off the trail at Rt. 51 (Oldtown Rd. SE) and go to Malcolm Rd, turn right on Oldtown Orleans Rd. and stay on that all the way to Little Orleans, MD and skip the entire detour. I’ve not done this before so I can’t comment but Google maps says it’s 13 miles. I would bet this route is super Appalachian style hilly so pick your poison. There no flat way around Paw Paw Tunnel. This is also a very remote stretch.

You may want to look at RideWithGPS or Strava heat maps and see if anyone else has tried this route.

For getting to Sulfur Springs Rd, this cut through (https://goo.gl/maps/MnXjE47brbYWASFAA) doesn't connect over? There are some houses back there in the satellite view, so it looks like a viable access point.

My goal would be to bike up and then walk the bikes down. Easier to go downhill on foot than push the bike up.

The road route mapped on google would look interesting if I was on my own, but I will be riding with my kids, and they won't want to climb almost as much in 6 miles leaving Paw Paw as we would climb in going from Pittsburgh to the continental divide. :)

Thanks for the update. We'll be through there next week.

Ross:

The rider I encountered on the bypass was riding up the upriver side of the detour path. He was a young (30 something) rider on a geared down mountain bike and was within maybe 150 yards of the top when he finally stopped. His two travelling mates were pushing their bikes up the ascent as I was pushing mine down. (In full disclosure, I ride lots of road miles but I am 71 years old. So take my opinions for what they are worth in that context.)

If you are in good shape and not riding a heavily laden bike, you should be able to get up and over the summit, albeit pushing your bike much or all of the way up and down, without expending greater energy than trying to ride Oldtown Road and others to get to the top. And, as John W. notes, you still have to get down the descent.

Reading your most recent post about your kids riding with you, that casts another light on the question depending on their ages and condition.

You may want to consider a shuttle around the Tunnel Bypass. Earlier posts provide info, cost and contact info about that service.

Andrew, do you have the lat/long of that cut through you sent? It looks good, two paths intersecting, but when I do street view at the trail & Sulpher Springs Rd, it doesn’t show that, it’s just a field.

If that is Sulphur Springs Rd and it does indeed cut through then go for it!

John,

This is the google maps link with the lat/lon:
https://www.google.com/maps/place/39%C2%B031'54.8%22N+78%C2%B027'56.3%22W
(39°31'54.8"N 78°27'56.3"W) or (39.531889, -78.465639)
This appears to be the access road to the field between the trail and the river. Streetview shows a mobile home on the field side with "No Trespassing" signs, but the other side does not have any posted signs. I looked at the Strava heat map, and it does show some people leaving the trail there, and then taking roads up to the top of the detour and then the rest of the detour down to the trail on the downriver side.

Rivnuts, this will be our 5th summer in a row riding to DC from Pittsburgh. Every year there has been the threat of the tunnel being closed, but this is finally the year that it looks like they are following through. My kids are older teens now and certainly capable, but they like to complain so if we can ride up rather than push, that will likely lead to fewer complaints. Walking down should be less of an issue.

Rivnuts:

Thanks. We are traveling light and always up for adventure. Sounds like we'll be ok. That must be someone else with the kids. We are leaving ours home.

Andrew: Thanks for those coordinates, now I see where you are talking about. Certainly looks like you can connect to the main roads from this dirt path.

If you complete it, give us a recap of the detour. It might give others something to consider until the Paw Paw detour is no more. I’m curious if it has a lot of elevation gain or not.

Also, go to OpenStreetMap (dot org) and zoom to the coordinate and they have a different street basemap which contains the road you saw in the street view.

John

Teens with unloaded bikes should be able to get up and over the bypass but it’s not clear how much they may be able to ride. Let us know how you all fare

Does anyone know if the "late summer" reopening of the trail down river of the Paw Paw Tunnel is still on schedule?

From the NPS C&O Canal website regarding the closure between MP 88 and 89.

“The project began in August 2021 and is anticipated to continue through winter 2022/23, weather dependent.”

Well darn.

Teens with unloaded bikes? I'm not a packmule. While I carry the tent and food, they have to haul their clothes and sleeping bags, etc. The younger of the two has done this since they were 12. :)

I will give a report after our trip. We are planning on leaving Pittsburgh June 17th. Although if we end up in the middle of a week of rain the trip will likely be called for weather.

It was supposed to rain today, so I arranged for the shuttle with Dan. It began to rain as we put the bike on the car. He charges the same to go to Little Orleans or Hancock, so I had him drop me off in front of C&O Bike Shop just before the rain got to Hancock. I walked around town, had an early dinner, got back to the Chicken Coop just as a couple who had passed me at Lock 70 rode by. Dan is a really nice guy, full of information, and we swapped stories the entire drive. I don’t think dragging my bike and 35# of gear over the detour is a life experience of which I’ve been deprived.

We rode from Meyersdale to Hanjcock today. The tunnel bypass was well marked and in good condition. We stopped several times to catch our breath pushing the bikes up and were able to ride the entire length down. The top 1/4 is very very steep. We went very slow but it was better than walking. The makeshift bridges do have gaps to watch out for. It looked like they had graded the ruts out.

Thanks to everyone for the heads up.

I really would not want to take this heading to Cumberland. I think you'd be walking most of it.

Ross:

Thanks for that update. For info, are you riding self supported with a loaded bike? What you describe is what I have typically found the bypass to be like in previous trips when dry and without any construction at the top. As you note, the downriver descent can be ridden carefully after that early steep portion so long as it is not muddy and rutted. Enjoy the rest of your trip.

PS: My recent trip was headed toward Cumberland, so I barely rode any of the detour. Had to.push virtually the entire detour with my loaded bike.

Rivnuts (and native Hoosier)

Rivnuts:

Yes, we are riding unsupported but we are staying in hotels and are just carrying changes of clothes.

Sorry for the delay in reporting back on my experience dealing with the Paw Paw Tunnel detour. To recap, we were traveling from Pittsburgh to DC, self-supported, myself and my 16 year old child. We were riding the trail for the 5th summer in a row, so are now experienced at this. Every year it seemed they were threatening a tunnel detour, but this is the first year that it actually happened. We were on this section on Monday June 20th around 1:30PM.

I did not want to push my bike up, because it is heavy, I expected it to be hot, and, well, because a bike is meant to be ridden and not pushed. So I looked for alternatives. Heading downriver, if you exit the trail about 1 mile before Route 51, at the cross-over where the truck that services the port-a-potty enters (I know because that truck entered the trail right before we got there), you can get to Sulphur Springs Rd. We rode that up to Route 51, went east on Route 51 for a couple of hundred yards, the turned left on Malcolm Rd. We rode up Malcolm Rd. to Tunnel Hill Rd. Tunnel Hill Rd. is a gravel road up to the top of the mountain above the tunnel. We then rode down the detour on the downstream side, which is doable because they widened the trail, I presume for construction equipment. This route shows up faintly on Strava, and I saw one recreational rider going down while we were heading up and then was just behind us when we reached the top.

This is a viable alternative, although the road is quite steep at times. I managed to ride the whole way, while my 16 year old walked a bit 3 different times. Once right after leaving the trail, once approaching Route 51, and a last time on a section of Tunnel Hill Rd. It took us 35 minutes total, starting at Route 51 to backtrack the mile back to the crossover since we had lunch in Paw Paw, to get to the top of the detour, and then about 5 minutes to ride down. We both have 2" wide 650B tires, as that might affect one's willingness to ride down the detour.

I would also not hesitate to leave the detour at the top if headed upstream and ride down the opposite direction of what I described. The section on Route 51 is pretty short, and it is basically all downhill so no walking would be required. Just make sure to turn right when you leave the detour. I did not travel that section, though, so I can't comment on how rough it would be riding down that side.

My buddies and I are doing the trail again this Fall DC to Pittsburgh camping. Any suggestions on unique or special places to camp? We know about the Lock Houses and primitive camp areas. Also the scenic over look near Big Savage tunnel. Heard there is an old 19th century cemetery 30 miles outside of Pittsburgh. Anyone know exactly where?

Thanks in advance!

I just finished my fourth DC to Pittsburgh trip and camped all but one night where I could not find a primitive or commercial campground within reason. At other times, I've camped all along the GAP. I'm not sure what your definition of a "special" campground might be. That said, the outfall campground near the base of the Youghiogheny River Dam is a different setting although it is a typical state park campground. The "chicken coop" at the Hancock, MD bike shop is a unique overnight location.

All the hiker/biker trailside primitive campsites are essentially the same although some are better maintained than others. In general, the camp sites along the GAP are nicer in my opinion than the hiker/biker campsites along the C&O Towpath.

I believe the scenic overlook you are referring to near the Big Savage Tunnel is at/near the Mason Dixon Line. I'm unaware of any campsite at that location.

I believe the 19th century cemetery about 30 (probably closer to 35)miles from PIttsburgh you are referring to is just east/south of West Newton, PA. Indeed it is old but not overly interesting in my opinion. There is no campground there although there is one just a couple of miles beyond at Cedar Creek Park. There is also a campground at Dravo Cemetery about 25 miles outside Pittsburgh but nothing particularly special there either in my opinion.


One of the more oddball sites along the GAP is a $2 million glass sculpture in Dunbar, PA at the end of the Sheepskin Trail branch off the GAP south of Connellsville. It was donated by Donald Trump back to the small PA town where the azure blue glass was originally made. The sculpture is in a small addition to a small Dunbar Historical Center. If you plan to go there, call ahead to see when it is open or when you would be there. In the past they have offered to open the building and show you the sculpture if you call ahead. Note the trail there is rather rough, but ridable, along some railroad right of way.

I have camped at Cedar Creek...nice location and seemed better maintained than the Hiker Biker campsites along the C&O.

Also camped at Ohiopyle State Park...I would not recommend, as it is an extremely steep uphill into the park from the GAP. Not exactly what I wanted to do after a day of riding and with my bike fully loaded. Campsite we chose was ok, but required us to bring our bikes down a set of stone stairs, across a creek and then back up into the campsite...also all uphill to bathrooms/showers. If you decide to stay here, you may be better off choosing a car site, as they seemed to be closer to everything.

I have read good things about Husky Haven in Rockwood, but do not have an opinion, as I have never stayed there.

We camped at Evitts Creek HB right outside of Cumberland. Site was large and fairly flat. It was pretty noisy though--train tracks are a stones throw away, right across the towpath and canal. Site is located where trains sit and idle. It is also located near an airport....on the night we were there there was a helicopter flying, so it was noisy to say the least. It is close to the city making it easier for non hiker bikers to be in the area as well. Take that as you will... if we could have made it to Irons Mountain or further, I think we would have enjoyed the night better.

15 Mile Creek in Little Orleans is a great campsite...it is not free, but has beautiful views of the rivers edge and is close enough to Bills Place that you can set up camp and then go grab a bite to eat.

If you get a chance, check out Pedalshift on Youtube. He has video reviews of every HB campsite on the trail.

Yes to Husky Haven. Fair price, nice showers and nice camp sites.

Yes to Pedalshift. I know of the C&O and GAP because of the Pedalshift podcast.

Thanks to Pedalshift also. His video helped me navigate the creek crossing near the Brunswick washout last summer. Probably would have ponied up and taken the shuttle had I not seen that. Saved money and time (though I did get wet feet!).

The old cemetery is Dravo Cemetery, there is a Boy Scout supported (public) campground right there with two Adirondack shelters and potable water. Very nice. I stayed there a couple of nights ago and probably 4 times in the past year. It is about 27 miles from the end of the trail in Pittsburgh.

One thing of note if you do camp at Dravo Cemetery. There is a racoon there that will take almost anything not strung up or tied down. My first night there it almost got off with someone elses first aid kit. I saw it pawing at my bags but it didn't get anything. Last weekend, the racoon made off with a gear bag with a rider's contacts. So just be ready to string up anything attractive and securely close and fix your bags to something. I was actually in one of the shelters and the racoon didn't bother us at all.

I can personally attest to the raccoons at Dravo Campground. Just this past week I camped there and Ricky the raccoon, and his spouse and child, were all trying to rummage through my panniers when I woke up at 3am and shoo'd them away. After hanging my food up, they returned an hour later (4am) attempting, in vain, to get to my food. So yes, Dravo has a nice population of well fed raccoons.

I think I was in the next tent over from A Moore last Saturday night at Dravo Cemetery. :)

I always hang my food, but they smelled something interesting in my handlebar bag this time and pulled out one of my spare tubes and left it on the ground. Just glad they didn't find that edible!

A small group of us are planning a quick trip from Sheperdstown to Williamsport. I have just learned of the nearly one mile closure at mile 88. There is a detour to get around it but it looks like it will add a lot of time, much of which we will be pushing our bikes. Has anyone done this? Is it a big deal, and how much time will it add. Thanks for any advice.

Jim:

The closure of the C&O around MP88 is about a 3 mile detour on country roads with a few short hills. I would expect that the only part you'll have to push are the 30 to 50 feet to get up to the detour or down to the C&O itself from the detour. Those paths are steep and were covered with shredded bark for traction in late May but not ideal for riding especially if you are carrying or towing a load on your bike. It shouldn't take that long to traverse that detour, perhaps 30 minutes tops.

Others may have had a different experience than I had.

Thanks so much for the info. I neglected to mention that we are doing an out-and-back, so we would be doing the detour twice. Nothing you have said, however, makes it sound like much of a hardship. Our alternative plan would be to start in Hancock and head east to Williamsport, then return to Hancock the next day. Any thoughts on which route would be more scenic, have better trail conditions, etc. Your help is much appreciated.

Rivnuts may have more details to share than I of what’s more scenic but if you do the Hancock turnaround, you will be able to utilize the paved Western Maryland Rail Trail (WMRT) which parallels the C&O. You’ll only be on it for 9-10 miles each way but it makes a big difference to your overall enjoyment.

Please note….if you reach Mile 0 on the WMRT, you’ve gone too far. The interchange is at approx mile 0.75, Ernstville Rd. so you’d need to go back 3/4ths of a mile. On the C&O the interchange to the WMRT is around mile 114.

John

Well John W has put me on the spot about the scenery of each of your out-and-back options:

Williamsport to Shepherdstown or
Hancock to Williamsport

I don't feel strongly about one of the options being necessarily more scenic than the other. The latter includes Fort Frederick which is rather unique as well as Little Pool and Big Pool.

The former includes the causeway along Big Slackwater as well as Shepherdstown itself. Further you could leave the trail and go over to the Antietam National Battlefield if you have an interest in Civil War history.

I, myself, like the ride from Williamsport to Shepherdstown a little better. This is mainly because of Shepherdstown itself. I like that historic small town with the university buildings. That said you have to ride up or push up the switchback from the trail up to the bridge to cross the river to get there.

Others may have different opinions and reasons.

Rivnuts and John, thanks so much for the Intel. We are still deciding which route to take. There are pros and a few cons for either direction, but either way, we expect to have a great ride.

You’ll have to let us know which one you chose and what you liked or disliked about your trip.

We are sticking with the original plan, starting in Shepherdstown and biking to Williamsport. Your input, combined with info from the C&O people via phone yesterday, convinced us that the detour shouldn't be a big deal. By the way, I agree that Shepherdstown is a wonderful little town. My wife and I have put our kayaks in there a number of times. It will be my first time setting out from there on a bike.

Jim:

If you plan on riding up into the town of Williamsport and have not done so previously, make note of how best to get across the canal from the trail. The best way to get bikes across are along the walkway across Lock 44 before you get to Cushwa Basin. Otherwise you would have to carry your bikes up the steps and over the pedestrian bridge closer to Cushwa.

You can see this in the satellite view of the trail map of that area.

Another option for crossing the canal at Williamsport is to ride across Salisbury St. It is steep coming from the canal side into town, but an easy option when return to the canal.

For the detour at MP88, you could also leave the trail at Dam 4 (between MP85 and MP85) and take the high-water detour for when Big Slackwater is flooded. I really didn't like the wood mulch portion of the current detour when we rode PGH-DC last month, but I really like Big Slackwater, so for me it's a toss up about which detour might be preferable.